November, 2000
Volume 4, Issue 4
China is vibrant, fascinating, motivated, and energetic - a country on the move! But more about that later.
The Chinese, however, are not the only people who are on the move. (A sneaky segue here) “Move” was our theme from May until August – with unpacking still incomplete. The summer, which was “up for grabs” in the last issue of RRR, grabbed back and we have been busy, busy, busy.
What happened? Well, Helen had thought to maintain her old home in Akron as a base when visiting friends. But after a few days spent cleaning up from the winter and opening up for the summer, she decided there had to be an easier way and decided to sell the house. Now the selling was easy. I put up a sign on Wednesday and the house was sold on Thursday. (With a rather costly newspaper ad coming out for the week after the sale!) Then the work began. As always there were three categories of “stuff”: take it, sell or give it away, and trash it.
First, the “take it”. It sounded good. Helen’s estimates were modest – and I have a witness to this. The piano, a couple chests, a rug or two, and six boxes. Well, “ol’ six box Helen” as she is now known ended up with 59 boxes plus a seven foot fichus tree and pot, a large and delicate metal peacock, and so on. And no, she did not scrimp overly on the “trash it”. Cornel Streza (a good friend…at the outset at least) and I made so many trips to the town compactor that I was on a first name basis with the operator, Millie.
The “sell” stuff was easy. In Ohio they have something called a “tag sale”. You get one of the people who do this as a business to handle the whole thing. They come in and arrange the display all of the stuff to be sold, price everything (and not low prices either), advertise the sale, conduct the two day sale, and then clean up everything so that nothing is left – and I do mean nothing, not even the dirt on the carpet. It is a super service. It not only gets it done in a hurry, but (I think) gets higher prices than you could on your own, partly due to the reputation of the tag sale firm. It was amazing. The sale was advertised to start at 10AM. First come gets first entry to the sale. Our first buyer set up camp at 4:30AM!!! They gave out tickets at nine and by the start of the sale had issued 120 tickets! The first 30 people were admitted at ten and anyone in the way got trampled. In three minutes, the two sets of china were gone! Wow!
The frenetic tag sale was a fitting conclusion to a very busy and hectic ten weeks or so. Lots of farewell dinners, stem to stern sorting and packing, major efforts to tie up other loose ends, all further complicated by three major schedule changes in one week. And guess how many items from the folder labeled “Things in the Akron area to show Jerry” got done…yep, none. It was so bad I even had to mow the lawn!! Ah well, it’s done and the house is still happy. The house is happy? Yes, Helen is convinced that her little house is happy with Mary, the new owner, a lady alone and about the same age as Helen was when Helen moved in. They hit it off so well that they were hugging when saying goodbye; the real estate agent still doesn’t believe it!
August is a blur with unpacking and house guests. (I got to play “grandpa” for the first time and it was great.) We did get a few days to prepare for China – and what a trip! For reasons I do not yet understand, we found our group tour consisted of Helen and me – that’s all, a private guide plus car and driver just for us for the whole month’s trip. (I’m going to find out why so I can make it happen again!) We were met at each airport, picked up every morning, taken where we wanted to go that day with changes based on our mood and interests, and escorted through the airport when it was time to catch our next flight. The guides all spoke English, of course, and the vehicles ranged from vans to a Mercedes sedan. The bad news is that we are now spoiled.
Since my last trip, China is the same and China has changed. Except in hilly Chong Qing, thousands of bicycles still crowd the streets. But in some cities like Guilin, motorbikes are now common – it’s called prosperity. Much work is still done by hand and with the strength of the human backs and legs like the porters unloading ships with a pole across the shoulders and a basket on each end, or the women we saw using picks to cut a channel in the asphalt pavement. (Yes, women – they have equal rights in China.) But there is also more power equipment in evidence. Many, many, many homes still have no running water and no bathroom facilities but there is also a great deal of new construction, much not yet occupied. This raises an interesting difference in culture. The empty homes and apartments were built by private money and sales are slow because the Chinese are reluctant to borrow. To illustrate, our guide told the story of two women who died and went to heaven: one Chinese and one American. The Chinese woman said she was so happy because she had lived just long enough to save the money for a new home. The American woman said she was so happy because she had lived just long enough to pay off the mortgage on the home she had lived in for many years. The Chinese sacrifice and save until they can pay cash; Americans – and perhaps other westerners – buy now and pay later – and pay and pay. Maybe both are to extremes?
Some other things just haven’t changed. Who has the right of way in traffic is still determined by who wins the game of “chicken”. Now, buses do have an advantage in this bluffing game, but I have seen even a bicyclist out-bluff a bus! Another thing that didn’t change is despite eating well and to excess, I again lost seven pounds, reason enough for a trip to China. Speaking of eating, Air China always serves a meal, even on a flight of 1¼ hours. Of course, it is always chicken and rice – even for breakfast.
It was Helen’s first trip and she had been made more than a little apprehensive by people telling her to take canned tuna, etc., etc. Now she keeps saying, “When can we go back.” She loved it, the people, the sounds and sights, the bustling energy all around, the zoo in Chong Qing, the food (even using chop sticks), and especially the hotels. With one exception, we were only in three and four star hotels, but they matched or exceeded the Marriotts, Sheratons, and Hiltons. The Peace Hotel in Beijing, for example, had a breakfast buffet that would put any western hotel to shame. In the small city of Guilin, the hotel had fish ponds in the lobby, a massive swimming pool, Japanese gardens, and even a bowling alley off the lobby. The hotels – and their prices – are almost reason enough for a trip to China!
Of course, you don’t go for that reason. You go to experience another culture, its history, and its people. As I found on my last trip, Tibet is indeed another culture. And, unlike eastern China, a place which has changed little, not only since my last trip but over many years and in some ways, centuries. The contrasts are remarkable. We visited two homes where the primary difference between now and 200 years ago is they now have electricity. And then we went to a cyber café and used the internet to send email.
Our guide was a charming young lady named Yangdron; she is Tibetan and, like most Tibetans, an active Buddhist. With her services only for us, we learned much about Tibetan Buddhism and gained some interesting insights. For example, while the Chinese presence may be resented and Yangdron’s own dream is to see the Dalai Lama in her lifetime, she does say that the younger Tibetans feel they are better off since the Chinese gained political control. It also became apparent that the conflict goes back to the 5th Dalai Lama in the 18th century who gained political control to add to his religious leadership. (Actually religious leadership over only part of Tibet – the Panchen Lama directs the religious affairs of the rest of Tibet.) It appears that the current struggle is for this political control. And while political freedom here like elsewhere is extremely limited, the people are no longer serfs owned by the wealthy as if they were part of the land.
In addition to the benefits of a private guide, we had more than twice as much time in Lhasa this trip, so we were able to see much more. Of course, we did the major items since it was a first time for Helen: the Jokang Temple and the unforgettable Potala Palace, one of the most impressive sights in the world. It’s built on a small hill and towers almost a thousand feet above the city. We were there on a day when the religious pilgrims visited. They climbed and walked up the hundreds of front stairs. Then they climbed ever higher going clockwise and praying and adding their yak butter to the ever-burning candles at each of the many manifestations of the Buddha. We entered from the rear and still had to climb the equivalent of a ten story building. Unforgettable.
Also unforgettable is the Gandan monastery about forty miles from Lhasa. Founded in 1409, the many buildings hug the top of a 14,000 foot mountain accessible by foot or, fortunately, by a torturous, dirt, switchback road. But realize, there was no road when the monastery was built. The views were spectacular and some of the buildings beautiful, but life for the monks is Spartan indeed. We listened to them chanting, to an “exam” of one of the younger monks with laughter when he sparred with a smart answer – or so we think since we could understand nothing. One monk asked via our guide how long it had taken us to come to Tibet. But the monk couldn’t understand or believe how we could have come so far in a few days. He has probably never seen an airplane; it is just not part of his world. Despite hauling water on their backs, having little protection against the harsh winters, and knowing little or nothing about the outside world, they seemed happy. Of course, maybe that’s because they don’t know about the outside world?
Most of what you see in Tibet as a tourist is oriented to Buddhism; it is the heart of the culture and has been since it was introduced from India in the late 7th century. With Yangdron we not only saw but we learned. Why they have prayer flags and wheels is easy. Understanding the past, present, and future Buddha raises questions but is clear. However, getting the many, many manifestations of the current Buddha, his disciples, and the basis for the other statuary straight is a major task and one I cannot say we achieved. However, we did learn that there are many sects – four in Tibetan Buddhism alone – and at least two major groupings. Tibetan Buddhism is oriented to worshipping the statues of more manifestations of the current Buddha than I could track. Frankly, it seemed to me it is a religion where great efforts have been made to define God (if Buddha can be considered as such – they say he’s not) and God’s characteristics in human terms, something I do not think is possible. The net result is a large number of manifestations made into idols for worship.
Of course, we went to Beijing. Beijing with its Forbidden City where the last emperor reigned (and the movie was made), the Great Wall winding along the mountain ridges as far as the eye can see, the Summer Palace with its walkway adorned with 32,000 paintings, and the Temple of Heaven. The latter is interesting for several reasons, but the thing that got me is that if a commoner even witnessed the Emperor’s parade from the Forbidden City to the Temple, he was killed. Almost not understandable.
Xi’an, of course, is famous for the terra cotta warriors, the army of 7,000 life sized officers and soldiers, each face unique, made on the order of the first emperor of the Quin Dynasty in 234 BC; the same emperor who was the first to unite China, to finish the Great Wall, and to standardize the written language. The underground army, a product of 38 years work by 720,000 people, was to defend the Emperor’s tomb. But the Emperor was so hated that four years after his death the people revolted and set fire to the supports for the roof that kept the underground army from being buried. The army laid buried until a few years ago when a farmer was digging a well. And that farmer is now signing autographs in the main gift shop – yes, this is true.
I’ve always said fishing is for the birds. And that’s what they still do in Guilin. They use cormorants for fishing. How? Well, they fasten a loose noose around the cormorant’s neck and let the bird go and look for fish. When it finds one, it grabs it and sends it down the gullet – or tries to do so. The noose prevents the cormorant from swallowing the fish and the fisherman massages the cormorant’s neck to make the fish come out. Most interesting to watch. Helen felt sorry for the birds, but when fishing is bad, the fisherman has to buy fish to give the birds their once a day feeding.
Guilin is a good sized city but very rural with lots of rice paddies, many ponds where they grow lotus for the roots (a delicacy?), and water buffalo all around to work the small fields. We saw lots of ducks in the river seemingly on their own. I’m told – I kid you not – that every night they know where to go home. Obviously, they have not heard of their part in Peking roast duck. Guilin is in a limestone area with many caves and strange mountains. The mountains surround the river like a stone forest, like the teeth on a key; jagged with small bases and sharp tops. Very different and picturesque.
Chong Qing was great fun. We said no to seeing “sights” and spent our day in this city of ten million plus, a city so hilly that bicycles are useless, where the streets are crowded with poor farmers and their bamboo back poles asking for a load to carry, where many 10 story apartment houses have only stairs. (It does discourage drop-in company!) At the zoo there were pandas, a tiger face to face with Helen (with glass in between), and monkeys holding on to the bars with one hand and catching peanuts out of the air with the other. Eilan Park had a kite festival; one kite was of an eagle complete with talons and was some 40-50 feet wide. The Park also had pigeons. And with a little feed in her hand, Helen had pigeons, too - from foot to head.
Chong Qing is the upstream port for the Yangtze River cruises. At Chong Qing (known in the west as Chung King) the blue waters of the Jialing River visible meet the brown, muddy waters of the Yangtze – and the blue is lost forever. When we boarded the Princess Jeannie that night I realized this was the same boat I was on during my last trip. Knowing the cabin size, I asked about a cabin with a queen bed. And it was no problem – a suite was available. However, when they said only $1,200 US extra for four nights, the little cabin seemed much more spacious.
The famous (and overrated) three gorges were much like before except many buildings have been built above the anticipated water line preparing for 2003 and 2009 when the current towns will be flooded. Actually, 65,000 of the 1.2 million people to be relocated were moved to Shanghai while we were in China. And the water will be coming. The famous – or infamous, your choice – Three Gorges Dam which was just started 4-5 years ago and will easily be the largest in the world is almost half done and even now is a massive thing. Enough power generation to pay the $28 billion of cost in five years. And, hopefully, the ability to prevent another flood like 1998 when thousands died and the flatlands of the Yangtze suffered $20 billion in damage. Controversial, but on balance probably justified.
Fascinating and fun on the river trip was the excursion on “pea pod” boats up a tributary of the Yangtze. With 12 in the boat and a crew of six, it was up a not too lazy river. At first, four oarsmen standing and facing forward rowed us along. When the rapids were reached, these four entered the shallow stream, slipped the harness fastened to a rope on the boat over their shoulders, and step by agonizing step pulled us and the boat up through the rapids as it has been done for centuries – and is still done as this was not just a tourist thing. Freight boats might have motor power to the rapids, but it is up to the “trackers” from there. Coming down the rapids was “whoosh” and away.
From Wuhan at the end of our boat ride we headed for a long anticipated night at the 5 star White Swan Hotel in Guangzhou (Canton). And we were definitely not disappointed. In the atrium lobby, look to one side through windows three stories tall to see the Pearl River, to the other side to see the indoor, two story waterfall cascade into the lobby gardens and fish ponds. Enjoy the lobby ambiance with a drink before dinner and listen to the wafting sounds of a grand piano. Take the elevator to your floor and be greeted by a gracious young lady, one who also sees you as you leave and calls the elevator for you. Enter your standard room – a picture of luxury, a bath with golden fixtures, marble and mirrors (and an Olympic sized bath tub!), and at night, not just a turn down of the bed but a “goodnight” mat and slippers carefully placed on each side of the sumptuous bed. Dinner in the western “Silk Road Grill” with a string ensemble. A menu of French onion soup, Caesar salad tossed at the table, steak and baked potato, and a very good Chinese wine. And service typified by two waiters simultaneously removing the silver hoods from our main course. One of the best meals I have had and a hotel on a par with the Oriental in Bangkok, rated as the best in the world. All we could have asked was for more days – next time, for sure.
At my request, our guide did take us through the market in Guangzhou. Fascinating as on my last trip. Beautiful vegetables, “open air” meat markets, and turtles, chickens, pigeons, rabbits, cats, beetles, and assorted other live critters – for food, not for pets. Another memory was breakfast at the White Swan with many families with babies, 57 Chinese babies, mostly girls, ready to go to the USA and their new homes and families.
In Suzhou there were the Chinese gardens, one more than 800 years old. Gardens filled with rock walls and green plants, ponds, and benches for quiet contemplation. Quite different from western gardens, serene and quiet. Places to meditate and think quietly. Altogether, 36 gardens in this smallish city. Also, the embroidery institute where women spend a year copying a painting with silk thread – and making the painting show on both sides, sometimes the same and sometimes a contrast. And the Grand Canal going through Suzhou on its way to Beijing almost a thousand miles away. A canal built 1,500 years ago and still in full use today. It is being widened, and like 1,500 years ago, the work is being done by hand using the backs of humans to carry the materials.
And finally, Shanghai!!! Near the mouth of the Yangtze, a busy and world class port, a city that was divided into concessions by the French and British, the largest city in China, and the financial center of a country where the stock market is just starting to make the daily paper. The famous Bund along the river across from the 1930 vintage buildings left by the Europeans, bustling and busy but with the Yu Yuan Gardens from 1583 nearby. Gardens like the ones in Suzhou and with “zig zag” bridges to slow down the evil spirits who might be chasing you as you approach the sanctuary of the quiet places. And in the edge of the gardens, tea houses and a band concert – a band whose instruments are all made out of porcelain china (as in plates). A xylophone made from various sized plates, drums, chimes, stringed instruments, all in blue porcelain china and playing a Sousa march and a tango with great sound.
So many special things. The school (see Helen’s Corner), the show by the Shanghai acrobats, and a lazy day. The Shanghai acrobats are incredible. How about a girl contortionist who holds flaming candelabras on each foot, one in each hand, and one somehow on her head (five in all) as she rolls over and over. Or nine acrobats on one bicycle, or another leaping into a forward roll after flying through a hoop seven feet off the floor, or two men in a lion suit doing forward flips and rolls as one. (Talk about the possibility of losing your, ah) And a finale, one then two then three and finally four men on motorcycles inside a steel mesh ball maybe 15 yards in diameter playing “dodgem” as they make loops over and around each other. Vertical loops where the bike falls free for a moment while the others circle the ball on the horizontal – always missing by a hair! Don’t miss it when you are in Shanghai!
Because we ended our trip in conflict with the “National Days” holiday, our last day was a lazy day, but memorable. We had a simply super guide in “Riley” Zhang. Actually Riley is a “retired” guide and was only helping out. He now works on fund raising and organizing business meetings in China. Very sharp and a delightful companion. With him we had coffee and cake and conversation at another five star hotel, helped some boys practice their English, and ended with a subway ride just to say we’d been there. Looking back, I can think of no better way to spend the day.
By the time you get this, we may well be on our way to Athens to ride the Rotterdam back to Ft. Lauderdale on December 10. Home a week, then Atlanta for a week, home for 11 days and then off to the Seabourn Sun for 99 days around the world. (After that, collapse.) Again, we will wish you and yours the very best of holiday seasons and God’s blessing on you in 2001. Until next time, may a loving God walk with us and with each of you. Amen.
P.S. You remember the Bill and Lara that shared a wedding season in the last RRR? Well, while in Chong Qing we got an email giving us the good news – a baby in April. (Helen and I will not try to match them on this.)
